As a transgender woman, embracing your true identity often involves finding a look that feels authentic. For many of us, hair is a key element in that transformation. After all, it’s one of the most visible ways we can express our femininity, confidence, and individuality. But selecting the right hair color? That’s where things can get tricky.
When I began my transition a year and a half ago, one of the first steps I took was dyeing my hair. It had gone grey in my early 20s, and I had never dyed it before. I thought I’d try something bold and dramatic, so I went with a deep, dark color. Unfortunately, instead of the youthful transformation I was hoping for, I looked more like a 50-year-old goth. And while I fully respect goth style, it wasn’t quite the look I was going for.
Since then, I’ve been on a quest to find the perfect hair color for me. I’ve tried lightening my hair, but because I’m trying to avoid the harshness of bleach, my hair is still multitoned—dark at the ends, a lighter shade at the roots, and even some tiny baby hairs that have started growing since I began using minoxidil three months ago are completely blonde.
For transgender women undergoing hormone replacement therapy (HRT), hair changes can complicate the coloring process. Treatments like estrogen and finasteride often result in finer, softer hair that may not hold color in the same way as it did pre-transition. Minoxidil, a popular treatment for stimulating hair growth, can lead to new, often lighter baby hairs like mine, which only adds to the complexity of achieving a cohesive hair color. To finally resolve this hair color dilemma, I recently decided to consult with a professional colorist.
But don’t worry if professional help isn’t in your budget — I’ve got some tips for everyone! Here’s everything I’ve learned about choosing the perfect hair color for your skin tone, experimenting with highlights, and knowing when it’s time to get help from a colorist. Whether you’re just beginning your journey or refining your look, these insights can help you feel empowered in your choices.
Understanding Your Skin Tone
Before diving into hair color options, you need to understand your skin tone. Generally, skin tones fall into three categories: cool, warm, and neutral. Identifying which one you have will make choosing a hair color much easier.
- Cool Skin Tone: If you have pink, red, or blue undertones, you likely have a cool skin tone. You might notice that your veins appear blue, and you burn easily in the sun. People with cool skin tones usually have light eyes, like blue or green.
- Warm Skin Tone: If you have yellow, golden, or olive undertones, you’re probably warm-toned. Warm skin tones often tan more easily, and veins on the wrist may appear greenish. You might have brown, amber, or hazel eyes.
- Neutral Skin Tone: If your undertones are a mix of pink and yellow or you can’t quite place whether you’re cool or warm, you’re likely neutral-toned. Neutral skin tones are versatile and can often pull off both cool and warm hair colors.
Choosing the Right Hair Color for Your Skin Tone
Once you’ve identified your skin tone, it’s time to explore hair colors that can flatter your complexion. But remember, these are just guidelines. What matters most is choosing a color that makes you feel great.
For Cool Skin Tones
For those with cool skin tones, finding the right hair color can make all the difference in enhancing your natural beauty. Cool-toned complexions typically have pink, red, or blue undertones, and the best hair colors will complement these cooler shades rather than clash with them. Whether you’re aiming for a natural, everyday look or something more adventurous, the right color can bring out the radiance in your skin, creating a harmonious balance that elevates your overall appearance. Here are some ideal hair color options to consider if you have cool-toned skin.
- Ash Blonde or Platinum: The icy tones in ash blonde are a perfect match for cool complexions, bringing out their natural glow.
- Cool Brown: Rich, cool shades of brown, like espresso or mocha, add depth and complement cool undertones beautifully.
- Pastels: For those who love experimenting, soft pastels like lavender or blue create an ethereal contrast with cool-toned skin.
For Warm Skin Tones
For those with warm skin tones, choosing the right hair color can enhance the natural glow of your complexion and create a harmonious, radiant look. Warm tones work best with hair colors that have rich, golden, or reddish undertones, which can bring out the warmth in your skin and give you that coveted sun-kissed appearance. Whether you’re looking for a soft blonde, a deep brown, or a fiery red, the right hue can beautifully complement your warm undertones, adding vibrancy and dimension to your overall look. Here are some ideal shades to consider.
- Golden Blonde or Honey: Warm blondes, especially with golden undertones, bring out the warmth in your skin, giving you a radiant, sun-kissed look.
- Caramel or Toffee Brown: These rich browns enhance warm skin tones without overwhelming them.
- Auburn or Copper: If you’re looking to go red, warm-toned reds like auburn and copper are a great choice.
For Neutral Skin Tones
If you have neutral skin tones, you’re in luck! Neutral skin tends to be incredibly versatile, allowing you to pull off a wide range of hair colors, from subtle and natural shades to bold, vibrant hues. Whether you’re aiming for something balanced and understated or want to make a daring statement with bright colors, neutral skin can handle it all. Here are a few great options that will enhance your natural beauty while giving you the freedom to explore different styles.
- Neutral Brown: A balanced, neutral brown will complement your skin without drawing attention away from your features.
- Champagne Blonde: A blend of warm and cool tones, champagne blonde is flattering for most neutral skin tones.
- Bold Shades: Neutral tones can carry bold colors like magenta, teal, or fiery reds beautifully.
Highlights: Adding Dimension to Your Hair
If you’re not ready for an all-over color change or you want to add some subtle flair, highlights might be a great option. Highlights can enhance your natural hair color, add depth, and brighten up your look without committing to a full dye job. Plus, highlights can work for everyone, regardless of budget.
When choosing highlights, think about:
- Face-Framing Highlights: These highlights are placed around the face to add brightness. For trans women, they can help soften facial features and enhance femininity.
- Balayage: This is a more natural, sun-kissed look where the highlights are hand-painted on the hair, creating a gradual color change from root to tip.
- Chunky or Bold Highlights: For those who want something more dramatic, bold, chunky highlights in vibrant colors are an exciting option.
Whether you go for soft, natural highlights or bold, eye-catching colors, highlights offer a versatile way to experiment with color without a full commitment.
Hair Color Considerations for Transgender Women of Color
For transgender women of color, choosing the right hair color can add another layer of complexity but also offer unique opportunities for stunning and expressive looks. The rich variety of skin tones—ranging from golden to deep brown—can beautifully complement a wide array of hair colors when chosen thoughtfully. However, certain factors like undertones and the natural color of your hair will play a significant role in what shades work best.
- Complementing Deeper Skin Tones: For deeper skin tones, warm colors often create the most flattering look. Rich, warm shades like deep chestnut, auburn, or golden browns can enhance the natural warmth of your skin, creating a radiant and balanced appearance. If you want to go lighter, caramel or honey blondes can provide contrast without washing out your complexion.
- Cool Undertones in Darker Skin: If you have cool undertones in your skin, consider cooler shades like ashy browns, espresso, or even cool-toned burgundy. These shades will complement your skin’s undertones and give your look a balanced, harmonious feel.
- Experimenting with Bold and Bright Colors: If you’re a fan of bold, vibrant colors, your deeper skin tone can beautifully carry shades like royal blue, purple, or magenta. These striking colors can create a stunning contrast that highlights your unique features while making a strong style statement. Don’t shy away from bold choices if that’s what resonates with you—vibrant shades can be as empowering as natural tones.
- Hair Texture and Care: For many trans women of color, natural hair textures like curly, coily, or kinky hair can be more prone to dryness or damage, especially when dyeing or bleaching. If you’re going for a dramatic color change, consider consulting a professional colorist experienced with textured hair to avoid over-processing and damage. Be sure to prioritize moisture, using deep conditioning treatments regularly to maintain hair health and vibrancy post-coloring.
No matter your skin tone or hair texture, remember that the most important part of choosing a hair color is how it makes you feel. Whether you stick to warm, natural hues or go for something bold and expressive, your hair should reflect your unique style and help you feel your most confident, authentic self.
Seeking a Professional Colorist: Getting Expert Guidance
As someone who has been experimenting with at-home hair color for over a year, I can attest that sometimes it’s best to call in the professionals. My own multitoned hair, with dark ends, lighter roots, and new growth thanks to minoxidil, finally led me to consult a colorist.
Finding a good colorist can be a game-changer, especially if you’re struggling to achieve your desired look at home. A professional can assess your current hair situation — like my multitoned hair — and offer expert advice on what will work best with your skin tone, hair texture, and goals. Here are a few things to consider when looking for a colorist:
- Experience with Trans Women: It’s important to find a colorist who understands the needs of trans women, particularly if you’re in the middle of transition and experiencing changes in hair growth or texture.
- Consultation First: Before diving into any treatments, have a consultation. Bring photos of the colors you’re considering and be open about your journey. A good colorist will listen to your needs, offer suggestions, and help you achieve a look that suits your vision and lifestyle.
- Non-Damaging Solutions: Like many, I’ve avoided bleach as much as possible to keep my hair healthy. A good colorist will understand your concerns and suggest less damaging techniques, like glossing, highlights, or lowlights, to achieve your desired look.
But let’s be real — professional services aren’t in everyone’s budget. If you can’t afford a salon visit, there are still plenty of at-home options available that can give you fantastic results. Consider semi-permanent dyes, which are less harsh and gradually fade over time, allowing you to experiment with color without damage.
Hair Color on a Budget: Affordable Ways to Achieve Great Color
Not everyone can afford to go to a colorist, and that’s okay! Your hair journey is valid, whether you’re doing it at home or in a salon. There are plenty of ways to color your hair on a budget while still looking fabulous.
- At-Home Kits: Many high-quality at-home hair dye kits are available for a fraction of the cost of a salon visit. These kits often come with easy-to-follow instructions and are great for experimenting with different shades.
- Box Highlights: If you want to add dimension, there are also at-home highlight kits that can help you create a multi-toned look. Be sure to test a small section first, as these products can vary in how they work on different hair types.
- Temporary Color Sprays or Tints: If you’re still unsure about committing to a new color, temporary color sprays or tints are a fantastic way to test out a look without the long-term commitment. These products wash out in just a few shampoos, allowing you to change your look whenever you want.
Remember, just because a hair product is affordable doesn’t mean it’s ineffective. Many people, myself included, have found great success with budget-friendly solutions, and there’s absolutely no shame in that.
The Bottom Line
Choosing the perfect hair color is an incredibly personal journey, especially for trans women who are navigating both their external appearance and inner identity. Whether you’re looking for a shade that complements your skin tone, experimenting with highlights, or seeking advice from a colorist, the most important thing is that you feel confident and true to yourself.
And remember, there’s no “right” or “wrong” way to color your hair. If neon pink or electric blue makes you feel powerful, go for it! If you love a more natural look with soft highlights, that’s just as valid. Your hair is an expression of who you are, and it should always reflect your unique personality and style.
So, whether you’re working with a professional or getting creative at home, have fun with your hair color journey. It’s all about finding what makes you feel radiant — because you deserve nothing less!
